Outlandish pannier skirts with layers of frilly lace; teenage girls with larger-than-life make-up; a dash of sexuality and lashings of Victoriana are the order of the day for Japan’s Lolita girls.
What began as a street fashion two decades ago as youngsters aped the doll-like European styles of baroque and rococo has morphed into a near mainstream movement, with dozens of offshoots. Popular Lolita models such as Misako Aoki were big hits at this autumn’s Japan Fashion Week, showing off white parasols and pastel pink puff sleeves with high-laced boots, tiny top hats and huge ribbons.
Find out everything you need to know about the ‘Lolita’ fashion by clicking through our gallery.
Yu Kimura and Misako Aoki attend the XV Salon de Manga on October 30, 2009 in Barcelona, Spain.
What’s the history behind ‘Lolita’?
Taking its name from the title of Vladimir Nabokov’s novel about a middle-aged man’s sexual obsession with a 12-year-old girl, Lolita style embodies the childhood world of fairytales and comic-book fantasy. Over the last 20 years, it has developed and splintered into a broad range of subdivisions, taking on elements of the Gothic — from black roses and coffin jewellery — to the pseudo-holy, with some girls sporting crucifixes.
Japanese women dressed in Lolita fashion walk in front of the venue of the ‘Individual Fashion Expo.IV’ a gothic Lolita and punk fashion event in Tokyo September 23 2008.
What exactly defines a ‘Classical Lolita’, ‘Sweet Lolita’ and ‘Black Lolita’?
One young woman in Tokyo’s Lolita heartland of Harajuku, who gave her name only as Mina, introduced herself as wearing ‘Black Lolita, which is a little different from the orthodox Lolita’.
Mina, in her late teens, said Black Lolita is a mix of Sweet Lolita — a style that makes heavy use of furs, including stuffed animals and fake rabbit ears — and Gothic Lolita, which employs black ribbons, lace, pearls and satin, while maintaining the Lolita basic of large skirts. ‘There is also Classical Lolita, which is more mature looking,’ she said.
One thing all Lolita styles have in common is the distinct hint of sexuality and burlesque.
A model presents a creation during the ‘Individual Fashion Expo.IV’ a gothic Lolita and punk fashion event in Tokyo September 23 2008.
What does being a ‘Lolita’ represent?
‘Japanese girls love cute things, but they also love things that are slightly disturbing,’ said designer Maiko Fujii, standing next to a girl modelling her interpretation of Snow White, decked out in Gothic Lolita lingerie. ‘I think girls sometimes get enthralled by something forbidden, something ghastly,’ she said.
Norinao Tanaka, associate professor of fashion sociology at Bunka Gakuen University, sees the Lolita style as a manifestation of a psychological state unique to Japanese youngsters. ‘The Lolita style in general represents the world of childhood, the time before girls achieve their womanly sexuality,’ Tanaka said. ‘They live in the inner world of cuteness and immaturity, as if they are refusing to grow into an adult,’ he said. ‘They seem to rebel against the styles of certain age groups imposed by society.’
Maybe for that reason, the Lolita style seems to be confined to a fairly small demographic.
A combination photo shows people attending the ‘Individual Fashion Expo.IV’ a gothic Lolita and punk fashion event in Tokyo September 23 2008.
Is the ‘Lolita’ style for everyone?
Designer Fujii, who wore a simple short skirt and t-shirt, said at 25 she already felt too old to wear the costumes she designs. Kanami Naoi, an 18-year-old design school student, who wore a bright red, fluffy skirt with a white beret, said the style was very doll-like and could be difficult for older women to pull off. ‘It depends on who wears it, but maybe 30 is too old. I would say 25 is a close call,’ she said. But Imari Sato, 18, was more forgiving. ‘I think it’s fine to wear it as long as it makes you happy,’ she said.
Click next for more photos of the ‘Lolita’ fashion by true Tokyo fashionistas.
A model presents a creation during the ‘Individual Fashion Expo.IV’ a gothic Lolita and punk fashion event in Tokyo September 23 2008.
Yu Kimura attends the XV Salon de Manga on October 30, 2009 in Barcelona, Spain.
Lolita Girls, Hello Kitty and Hello Kitty designer Yuko Yamaguchi attend the Hello Kitty Designer Ms. Yuko Yamaguchi event at Sephora Soho on March 16, 2011 in New York City.
Kendall Jenner, Kylie Jenner and Lolita Girls attend Forever 21 For Hello Kitty Collection Launch Party at Forever 21 on November 17, 2011 in Los Angeles, California.
Yu Kimura and Misako Aoki attend the XV Salon de Manga on October 30, 2009 in Barcelona, Spain.
Ambassadors of the Kawaii Style, Misako Aoki, left, and Yuu Kimura attend the inauguration of the Japanitaly promotional event in Rome, Tuesday, July 7, 2009. In background, the Fabricius bridge lit in Japan’s national colors by Japanese artists, not shown, Motoko Ishii and her daughter Akari-Lisa Ishii.
A model presents a creation during the ‘Individual Fashion Expo.IV’ a gothic Lolita and punk fashion event in Tokyo September 23 2008.
People dressed in gothic and lolita fashion toast during a fashion event at Christon cafe in Tokyo September 28 2008.
A Japanese woman clad in gothic-lolita fashion attends a fashion event at Christon cafe in Tokyo September 28 2008.
Japanese women dressed in lolita fashion pose during a fashion event at Christon cafe in Tokyo September 28 2008.
A shop attendant dressed in lolita fashion works in a shop at Marui One a branch of department store group Marui Co. Ltd. at Tokyo’s Shinjuku district March 2 2009.
A combination photo shows shop attendants posing at Marui One a branch of department store group Marui Co. Ltd. at Tokyo’s Shinjuku district March 2 2009.
A shop attendant dressed in Lolita fashion shows her nail creations in a shop at Marui One a branch of department store group Marui Co. Ltd. at Tokyo’s Shinjuku district March 2 2009.
BARCELONA, SPAIN – OCTOBER 30: Misako Aoki attends the XV Salon de Manga on October 30, 2009 in Barcelona, Spain.
A Japanese woman dressed in lolita fashion poses in front of the venue of the ‘Individual Fashion Expo.IV’ a gothic and lolita and punk fashion event in Tokyo September 23 2008.
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